Shanghai Summer

baking seems like an odd hobby to pick up when it's so insanely hot

Omg hi - I’m going to try to resist the temptation to start every Substack with “sorry it’s been so long since the last one…” It is what it is!

hot and steamy summer nights

So. What have I been doing? Other than simply trying not to melt into the pavement. Oof it’s been a hot one - and not just in Hong Kong. A baking hot summer here is a given - but it seems as though it’s been especially warm almost everywhere this year? Sigh. I hope Jeff Bezos enjoyed his wedding.

It is hot and steamy in HK for 85% of the year and everyone who lives here knows just to accept it. If you can’t deal, you can’t hang. Although I think it’s been hotter than usual? Or do we just think that every year because we forget about the summer from last year once it passes?

Shanghai

The other major events that have marked my summer so far is a weekend in Shanghai with my sister (where it was also insanely hot , ha). I’m embarrassed to say it was my first ever time. I don’t know how or why it took me so long to get there, but hey - I am now the proud owner of a 5-year China Travel Permit so it’s safe to say it won’t be the last.

Shanghai was fab! My sister and I make excellent travel companions because we both enjoy the same level of doing things and also doing no things. A balance between the two is essential for the creation of a happy traveling occasion, in my opinion. And we both have the same priority - finding delicious things to eat.

Here is my hit list of the best places we went to and things we ate:

Old Jesse - This was our first meal in Shanghai, and it was an excellent way to start off. It’s a Shanghai classic (as we were told, by many people) and they serve all the highlights executed very, very well. The Scallion Noodles are top top top tier.

Xintiandi - A nicely developed high-end shopping area in central Shanghai. The buildings are traditional old shop houses that have been modernised. Everything has been very well done and it’s a nice place to mosey around for a while. The only thing I would have preferred is if some of the shops actually showcased Chinese brands rather than exclusively international big names.

Local Breakfast Place - 张师傅早餐点 - classic Shanghainese breakfasts of freshly made youtiao, soy milk, 次饭团 and 芝麻球 (helpful Chinese sent to me by a friend for ordering purposes). This place was SO good and such a pleasant surprise - we absolutely loved it. No menu, no English - but we found our way. Meaning, the manager lady just came over and put stuff in front of us. Everything is deep fried, but not overly oily. We had a classic Youtiao which was fresh and crispy, with sweet soy milk which was delicious and malty - perfect for dipping. The other thing we loved was some kind of filo pastry pocket filled with noodles, spring onion and sausage (I think?).

COMETA - Very cute bistro/wine bar. We only had a drink here, but the food looked very nice too.

Manual Espresso Bar - This place ended up being a safe haven from the crazy baking hot temperatures outside - we popped in for a quick iced coffee and happily discovered a) that their AC was on fleek (which could not be said for many other places in the city…what’s up with the lacklustre air conditioning everywhere in Shanghai?) and b) the coffee was amazing.

Bastard Shanghai - Amazing, amazing, amazing. Bastard was one of those names that kept cropping up on everyone’s “recommended” lists for Shanghai. I was a touch skeptical because it all looked very modern and fusion-y, which wasn’t what I was necessarily in the mood for. But we went. And oh boy, am I glad we did. My sister and I both agreed this was some of the best food we’d eaten in a long while, not just in Shanghai. Everything was thoughtfully executed, surprising and interesting in all the right ways, with the right touch of innovation whilst also feeling familiar in many ways. So. Good!

The Edition Hotel - We had a drink at the Rooftop bar here, which to be honest wasn’t all that remarkable as a bar itself, but it has an amazing view of the Bund. I would argue this is the only way you really need to experience the Bund - i.e. from a distance, up above and at night when the cool Shanghai skyline is sparkling.

Food and more food <3

Sisters in Shanghai

What else have I been up to?

I am deeply in my baking era. I seriously cannot get enough. I am still very into Broma Bakery cookie recipes - to date, I have made the OGs (duh), the Double Choc Chips (fabulous), the White Chocolate Raspberry and the S’mores (delicious but I think I added too much flour, the came out a bit crispy no matter how much I under baked them). Which ones should I make next? Seriously, I am taking requests.

I made this Tarte au Citron from David Lebovitz’s website for a friend’s birthday dinner a few weeks ago. It came out really well and I this was my first time making pastry dough from scratch. David’s recipes definitely assume the reader/maker is a somewhat experienced baker - the comment sections under his recipes are quite amusing. Lots of people complaining he doesn’t give enough specific instructions, or asking why x y z went wrong and David responds to them simply by saying “Idk, guessed you just messed it up.” I’m paraphrasing, but his vibe is to that effect. Ha.

Claire Saffitz’s Brown Butter Chocolate Caramel Tart - I made this for a girls dinner party last week and let me tell you, it was quite a hit. Claire’s version is inspired by the version served at Gramercy Tavern in New York City. It is insanely decadent, of course, but a resounding crowd pleaser. Brown butter + Chocolate + Caramel? Pffft - give me a breakkkk.

Happy Bakes

I am off to Fuji Rock festival in Japan next weekend - pray for me. I am not a typical festival go-er nor a seasoned camper. Yikes. Quite stressed at the prospect but obviously very excited too! It looks so fun and cute and fairly civilised.

Shall report back with news. 🫠

AKB xoxo